Bill and Linda

Another first for Alpine Exploratory: a guided walking trip to Tenerife!

When regular clients Linda and Bill Parker requested a trip to the Canary Islands, it was hard to turn them down, particularly as we have plenty of in-house experience in the guise of Alpine Exploratory leader Pete Ellis. So it was a pleasure to arrange a week of walking, led by Pete.


(Pete writes:) Arriving on Wednesday into Tenerife North airport, it is just a short transfer to our excellent hotel base for the first 4 nights in Puerto de la Cruz. Thursday started with a bus ride along the coast, followed by an easy walk back to Puerto de la Cruz (keep the sea on the left, Bill). This allowed plenty of time to become accustomed to the climate, explore the town, gain an insight into Canary life, and experience the buses for the first time.


The coast near Puerto de la Cruz

Friday was more adventurous, heading east towards the oldest part of Tenerife, the Anaga peninsula, to make use of some of the old trails which have been used for centuries by the locals. After a ‘gentle’ bus ride to La Laguna, a ‘more interesting’ ride ensued along the dorsal spine of the peninsula through the laura-silva forest. Finally down around many zig-zags and we arrived at the village of Taborno perched atop its ridge of ancient lavas. A walk around the village to take in the spectacular views was followed (after the secret purchase by Pete of some favourite chocolate almond tart) by a descent into a barranco and up again to Las Carboneras for refreshments. A little bit more up, followed by a contouring path took us around the hillside with fantastic views across to El Batan, and later Mt Teide, to reach Chinamada and its quaint rock houses, many of which are still occupied. A close encounter with the banjo player in Number 4 was narrowly avoided: another walking group, it seems, were not so lucky and were being ‘serenaded’ by the banjo player’s regular minimalistic repertoire – Pete has experienced this on a previous occasion, and soon learnt that getting involved was NOT a good idea!


Las Carboneras and the Roque de Taborno

After an excellent late lunch in the café there, it was downhill all the way (well, nearly all the way) to Punta del Hidalgo on the coast (with a break for the afore-mentioned chocolate almond tart at a spot with spectacular views down to the ocean). Two bus rides then returned us to Puerto, with a final ascent up the dreaded ‘death hill’ to the hotel (okay, I agree, it is a little bit steep).


Las Arenas Negras looking towards Mt Teide

Saturday, and we are headed out west to Montaneta and Las Arenas Negras. This area is characterised by black volcanic sands, studded with bright green pine trees – truly bizarre. Having walked through this area and onwards to the west, we take lunch at the Restaurant Fleytas and Pete re-established contact with his ‘Amigo’ who runs the bar and has been making guests welcome for nigh on 10 years. The flexible plan now comes into force, and careful study of the bus timetable reveals several options for the afternoon. The base plan is initiated, with option A, B, C or D to be implemented later on. Having quickly passed through Tenerife’s ‘Lake District’ (4 muddy ponds), we are into the gloom of the laurel forest, emerging at Los Bollicos and views down towards Masca and the island of La Gomera. Option C is chosen, and we continue northwest along the ridgeline, emerging from the trees every so often to take in the views on either side. Masca village is sighted – ‘the most beautiful village on the island’ according to Linda’s guidebook, so option C is now amended in order to pay a visit. Reaching the road 5 minutes before the bus is due, allows a quick ice-cream before boarding the bus for a roller-coaster ride to Masca and up the hill the other side to Santiago del Teide. Sadly we forgot to count the number of switch-backs on the road, and nor did we count the number of times the bus had to shunt forward and back in order to get around the corners. Who needs a fair-ground ride when you can just pay a euro for a fabulous ride on the Tenerife buses?


Beyond Los Bollicos

Sunday saw us heading up the mountain to stay for 3 nights at 2150m at the Parador in the middle of the lunar landscape that is the Teide volcanic crater. The Puerto de la Cruz cyclists were out in force today, and we had an interesting time watching as 30 mountain bikes seemed to miraculously disappear into the bowels of the bus. There was just about enough space remaining for our 3 cases. An afternoon stroll to some lava caves and around the Roques de Garcia led to a minor incident on the path, as Bill’s footwork failed to keep pace with the force of gravity and a few grazes were received to parts of his body which don’t normally come into contact with the ground!

Monday saw a quick trip up Montana Guajara, the highest point of the crater rim, for Linda and a less energetic summit of Los Azulejos for Bill. An early night ensued, to be ready for a dawn start the following day.


Pete goes for a climb at the Roques de Garcia

Dawn broke as usual at around 7:45 am, and the team set off having had a quick picnic breakfast. The plan was to reach the cable car before the tour coaches started to arrive at 9 o’clock, and this was duly achieved. As we waited for the second cable car of the day, the first coach arrived and the masses poured out to join the queue. Pete had acquired permits for the summit of Mt Teide (at 3717m, the highest point of Spanish territory), so we plodded slowly up to the summit for the customary photographs. As usual, there was a bit of steam puffing out of various holes, and a strong smell of sulphur (or should that be ‘sulfur’ for the Canadians?). Descending back to the base station of the cable car, and the queue of tourists was tailing back out of the building and down the road – probably several hours before most of them got onto the cable car. The benefits of an early start! We took a leisurely stroll back to the Parador, arriving just before the rain commenced. By dinner time, there was a sprinkling of snow on the top of Mt Teide! Some would say that it was just good luck that we made it to the top and back before the weather turned, but others would say that you made your own luck and it was skilful guiding!


Bill and Linda at the summit of Mt Teide

A leisurely start the following morning saw the group disperse, Linda and Bill to La Gomera and Pete back home to the UK.

So, a week of superlatives: good weather, excellent hotels, fabulous walking, and great company. When can I go again?


Pine trees at Las Arenas Negras

Schedule - Our trips. Please contact us any time about a private guided trip to Tenerife.