The peak Seat Sandal above Grisedale Tarn, under heavy wind-blown snow in late March 2013

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(Anna-Maria writes:) Late March was an eventful time for a trip, because the Lake District was hit by several feet of snow just before I set out. (Spring has arrived now that it's well into April!) With the addition of deep drifts of snow the more remote sections of the route became stunningly beautiful, if hard work.

This was a new route for me and sections of it took me into parts of the eastern and southern Lakes that I have not seen before; especially the areas of Kentmere and Troutbeck that walkers only tend to visit when they have a specific walk in mind.

The character of the East Lakes Circuit is one of big walks. While the South Lakes Circuit has an easy introductory feel, involving easy walking and short days, this route retains the easy walking but covers huge distances each day. Themes of both lakes and passes abound. Each day tackles a different body of water and uses passes to get between each of the valleys.

Setting out from Grasmere I was treated to a gentle warm up, walking the length of both Grasmere and Rydal Water to reach Ambleside. Other than a few patches of ice on the paths I found the going easy and was glad to arrive in Ambleside for a mid-morning cup of coffee before heading into more remote terrain. From Ambleside I briefly walked with views of Windemere before dropping over into Troutbeck and setting out on my first pass of the trip.

The Garburn Pass should be a wide and easy track although last week I was hindered by drifts of snow, hip-deep across the track. As the wind whistled towards me over the pass I found myself sliding backwards on wind-swept ice while I continued trying to battle forwards. I was grateful to eventually drop down into the welcome of the Kentmere valley and my bed for the night.

The next day, after an easy first pass over to a remote farm at the end of the Longsleddale valley I set out on my major climb of the day. The Gatesgarth Pass is a stunning trek, climbing most of the way between walls to reach the open area at Brownhowe Bottom. The sun, periodically peering from between grey clouds, glinted off the deep snow surrounding me and I realised how deep the snow was with no rocks or plants showing through.

Slow and steady determination eventually paid off and I was able to drop down towards the day’s lake – Haweswater. Walking the length of Haweswater should be an easy trek but walkers should not be deceived. After the two passes of the day it can seem longer than on the map and after the deep snow over the pass I was certainly glad to reach the pleasant village of Bampton Grange for the night.

Day three kept a lake feel for the day walking the full length of Ullswater and taking a rest from the climbing and passes. Ullswater is another long trek, taking you from the flatter terrain on the edge of the Lake District National Park at Pooley Bridge to the mountainous area near Patterdale, nestled between the High Street and Helvellyn ranges. On the way I was treated to varied scenery ranging from glorious snow-free valleys to narrow snow-covered paths through trees. At times I even felt like I should have been cross-country skiing along the lakeside rather than walking.


Haweswater is stretched out ahead, here seen from the Northern shore and looking East towards Bampton

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My final day was expected to be a long day, swapping the previous day’s lake theme for one of high passes. The first climb of the day under the shadow of the Helvellyn range to Grisedale Tarn was relatively easy. While the climb was tiring the snow had been kept thin by winds whistling over the pass.

The descent by Raise Beck is usually a long and tough, though rewarding, descent due to its steepness and the narrowness of the path beside the stream. I was expecting a tough descent from the snow but instead found it immensely enjoyable. The wind had filled the gully with snow, perhaps 10-15 feet deep in places, and hardened the surface. It was possible to walk safely down the middle of the gully, imagining I was trekking down a ski run, and I was impressed to watch a touring skier appear over the top of the gully as I was starting out. She had skied all the way up from the road in the valley at Dunmail Raise.


In descent from Dunmail Raise, the gully becomes like a ski run because of snow deposits

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With the first pass under my belt I decided to continue on the main route, climbing up beside Wythburn, looking back to views along Thirlmere, to reach a large flat area known appropriately as The Bog. This route was almost completely abandoned and I saw very few footprints in the snow as I climbed. Even in the height of summer this climb should prove to be peaceful after the busier pass of the morning but care will be needed at the top. I soon realised that the ground of The Bog is well-named as I sunk first through deep snow and found my feet continuing down through the mud.

As I ploughed through soft and deep snow the grey clouds that had overshadowed my review from the start finally cleared. Blue skies surrounded me with the sun shining off the snow and giving me my first sun tan of the year. Despite the wonderful conditions, I eventually had to admit defeat. The snow was just too deep and soft here. Instead I cut across the valley to rejoin the route at the top of the Far Easedale valley and finish my review with the long descent into Grasmere along the Coast to Coast route. I will no doubt return once the snow has returned to recheck the route through The Bog.

This was not a good review for wildlife, usually so present when walking in the Lake District. Both birds and animals were scarce, perhaps staying undercover from the large drifts of snow, grey skies and strong winds. However day three, as I walked down the length of Ullswater, was filled with buzzards with the most memorable sighting of five buzzards circling together, presumably parents and three youngsters. This filled me with hope that under better conditions this should be a spectacular walk for wildlife. Especially birds of prey and the red squirrels that are known to be near Bampton and on the climb up to Grisedale Tarn from Patterdale.

If you don’t enjoy technical walking but still want a challenge then this would be a perfect walk for you. The big distances of the East Lake District Circuit make each day a long trek but the rewards are remote views and more isolated passes. And you never know – you might spot some of those red squirrels!

East Lakes Circuit (Self-guided) Our new trip!