Anna-Maria taking a break at Sell Gill Holes, a cave entrance on the side of Pen-y-Ghent.

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(Anna-Maria writes:) After a difficult winter in the UK the summer finally feels like it is on its way. I was treated to mostly glorious sunshine for a short review trip in one of my favourite areas of the Yorkshire Dales as I trekked around the famous Three Peaks. My goal was to ensure that the new Tour of the Three Peaks directions are accurate, following some route changes both to Alpine Exploratory’s route and to the signposted Three Peaks Challenge route, but I couldn’t help but enjoy myself as I went.

While small patches of snow were still clinging to the sides of Pen-y-ghent and Ingleborough, the grass was already lush and green and the sun was baking hot. This was despite the confusion caused by a few brief and brisk late afternoon hail and rain showers. Late afternoon wet weather is a common feature in any mountainous area and it was refreshing to feel that things are getting back to a more normal pattern at last.


The straight track between limestone walls, that runs above Clapham on the stage to Ingleton.

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After my review trip to the Eastern Lake District a month earlier it was also a treat to be surrounded each day by plenty of life, both domesticated and wild. I heard several peewits (lapwings) and am certain that I also saw a few curlews. Meanwhile up on the moorland I was frequently warned away from ground-nests among the moorland heather countless times by worried skylarks protecting their nest sites. Elsewhere the hawthorn was starting to bud, spring flowers were in bloom and unstoppable lambs sprung about playfully in the fields while accusatory ewes kept a wary eye on me.

After my rave reviews about the Tour of the Three Peaks last year I wondered if the route would continue to live up to its promise and my memories of it. Fortunately it succeeded with awe-inspiring skylines and fabulous blends of colour from the moorland, fields and ever-present rocky features that have formed this landscape over millenia.


Ribblehead viaduct is seen from below, on the Tour of the Three Peaks, whether taking the high route over Whernside or the low route down the valley.

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The three summits of Whernside, Ingleborough and Pen-y-ghent dominate the landscape, with Pen-y-ghent being a particular pleasure to look at. It can often be shrouded by cloud but, when visible, has a distinctive and subtly beautiful silhouette. Walkers in the area are more commonly on top of it, rather than nearby looking at it, thanks to its summit being on the Pennine Way and Three Peaks Challenge. With this Tour of the Three Peaks route devised by Alpine Exploratory it is a pleasure to have time to enjoy views of all of the summits from several vantage points each day as you make your way through this grand landscape.


Pen-y-ghent is perhaps the most striking of the Three Peaks, especially in profile from Horton, despite being the lowest at only 694m.

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This low-level route keeps the days at a manageable length without any complexities making it perfect for beginner multi-day walkers or those looking for a more relaxing pace of life with their walking. The large expanses of uninhabited terrain that you pass through each day allow plenty of opportunities to stop and bask in the sunshine, imagining that you are the only walker in the world. Yet despite this sense of peace and solitude, each evening returns you to humanity with a warm Yorkshire welcome accompanied by large and tasty meals and local ale everywhere you go.

It all adds up to the Tour of the Three Peaks being a relaxing, enjoyable and memorable trip, even for a seasoned walker like me.

Tour of the Three Peaks - our 3-stage trek

Update!
Anna-Maria was joined by her mother Deirdre for this trek, and here is a report from Deirdre about the trip:

As a 'Golden Oldie' I enjoyed the walk enormously and although parts of it were challenging - particularly Day 4! I didn't feel at any stage that I wouldn't be able to complete the route. The compensation for working at it, included the fantastic views of the three peaks which changed (sometimes from hour to hour) as we covered the ground. Also the wonderful secrets like the waterfalls as we approached Ingleton, the frolicking lambs, the wealth of spring flowers, the enchanting village of Clapham, those astonishing tunnels rising up from Clapham and the Long, (long) Lane, understanding the rock formations and the gills into which bubbling becks mysteriously disappeared and the distant views of the Ribblehead viaduct which proved that you were getting somewhere!

The weather was on our side so I'm perhaps looking at that part of Yorkshire through rose-tinted spectacles ... but who knows, perhaps others will have that chance as well!