+ The 6-stage Great Glen Way in quick time, through the Scottish Highlands
+ Pete Ellis, who climbed Everest in 2012, reports from this flatter terrain
+ In late-April 2013, snow on distant hills, clear ground underfoot



At the Southern end of the Caledonian Canal, the man-made waterway connecting Loch Lochy,, Loch Oich and Loch Ness to make the Inverness to Fort William route navigable; here a red-hulled ship waits to descend to Loch Linnhe.

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(Pete writes:) The Great Glen Way runs for 79 miles through the Great Glen from Fort William to Inverness. Some see it as an extension to the West Highland Way, and yes, it does continue where the WHW leaves off. But it has a very different feel: easier underfoot, less up and down, and much more sheltered from the weather.

I’d not walked the route before, so Simon’s suggestion to check out the routecards was an offer too good to refuse.

The first day took me from Fort William (the Adventure Capital of Scotland) around the head of Loch Linnhe and along the Caledonian Canal. One of the highlights of the canal must be Neptune’s Staircase, the flight of 8 locks which raises the waterway by 20m. I was once lucky enough to be at the locks as a steam train passed over the swingbridge at the bottom of the Staircase.

Once beyond the locks, it is level walking along the towpath all the way to Gairlochy, where most folk stop for the night. Not for me, however: I was continuing on to Laggan.


A bench beside the trail as the GGW looks North along Loch Lochy. The trail takes the distant wooded shoreline on the left of the loch.

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After Gairlochy, the route takes to the forest along the edge of Loch Lochy. Sometimes deciduous woods, sometimes coniferous, often with views out across the loch and the possibility of spotting an osprey or an otter. One of the unusual highlights must be the Fairy Forest, where you are enticed into a magical section of woodland by fairy music (aka a large set of wind-chimes). Words cannot adequately describe the sights to behold – they have to be experienced. Enchanting!


Looking back to Ben Nevis, just visible as the right-hand of the three big mountains. The Nevis Range ski slopes are on the left-hand one.

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Onwards then to Laggan, and a welcome B&B.

Day 2, and it’s another ‘Double Day’, continuing through to Invermoriston rather than the usual stopping point of Fort Augustus. Canal, Loch Oich, Canal is the order for the morning: another fairly flat section. The route beside Loch Oich initially follows the old railway before switching to one of General Wade’s military roads – memories of the West Highland Way come to mind.

I made good progress, reaching fort Augustus by lunch-time. A bustling little place with a number of tourists watching the pleasure craft being taken up the flight of locks. I couldn’t linger long though, as there was another 11km of walking to be done. Now beside Loch Ness, the last and largest of the three lochs that are connected by the Caledonian Canal, it seems a long way to Inverness.


Immediately climbing high as it leaves Fort Augustus, the GGW gives a view back to the promontories by the town.

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The afternoon passed by quickly, and it was a pleasure to arrive at my B&B and be welcomed with tea and cakes. The sisters had done their research (or were they tipped-off by Simon?) and a happy time was spent reliving my memories of the last few years reaching the highpoints of different continents.

And so to Day 3, an easier day through to Drumnadrochit. The first half is similar to what has gone before, but the second half has a different feel. Instead of the lower slopes and protection by the forest, the route now takes a higher course above the tree-line and is more exposed to the weather. Fortunately not wet, but very breezy, with a tail-wind pushing me along.


A rainbow above Pete's pack, in plantations high above Loch Ness.

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At Drumnadrochit, you can’t fail to notice that there is reputed to be a monster inhabiting Loch Ness: try the Loch Ness Experience if you need convincing, or not.

The final stage, Day 4 for me, Day 6 for the normal programme, is nearly 30km through to the Capital of the Highlands, Inverness. As on the second half of Day 3, much of it is above the trees in exposed terrain, and once again I was helped along by a good tail-wind. Finally, with about 6km to go, Inverness hoves into view with its spires, river and castle – the finishing point is in sight. Descending back to lower ground, a final piece of Caledonian Canal is walked (bizarrely, in the direction of Fort William) before picking up the banks of the River Ness for the final few km to the castle and the finishing stone.


The long, straight, smooth path that carries GGW trekkers into Inverness, on the last afternoon, here looking back to Wester Altouries in a grand open setting.

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Memories of the Great Glen Way? Good tracks and paths, no mud, a Fairy Forest, birds singing in the trees, Lesley and Manda, and almost no rain. As the name suggests, it is a great way through the glen!

Great Glen Way - please join us between April and September