(Anna-Maria writes:) The West Lakes circuit is a new route for Alpine Exploratory this year and completes our set of 4 interconnecting circuits covering the main walking areas of the Lake District. I finally had the opportunity last week to head out with Chris Beardsley to review the new route.


The classic Lakes view of Buttermere (front) and Crummock Water (back) with the village of Buttermere in between.

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After such a glorious week for my Tour of the Three Peaks review a fortnight earlier I was disappointed to find myself playing the Waterproofs Game. A classic English game involving numerous changes of waterproof layers each day, putting them on, taking them off and putting them on again.

Unsettled and unpredictable weather is only to be expected when walking so close to a massive mountain range. The height of the mountains creates a unique localised weather system and interferes with any existing weather cycles that approach it. Despite this, we had a fabulous time getting to know England’s highest mountain range a little better.

While many people know of the Scafell massif, those who are new to the Lake District may well avoid it. It can be intimidating to approach the area of Scafell, knowing that it is the highest mountain in England. Fortunately there is plenty of fine walking to be had around the impressive summits of the massif without leaving the safety and simplicity of the paths and bridleways that work their way between the summits through broad passes. Alpine Exploratory makes excellent use of these to give you a taste of the highest peaks without the complexities.

The West Lakes Circuit takes an anti-clockwise route along and across the various valleys and cols surrounding the Scafell massif. In the process it allows splendid views of the massif, especially of Great Gable on the northern edge. But with views of the massif also come views of the valleys that run out from the massif, like spokes on a cartwheel. Langdale, Langstrath, Borrowdale, Buttermere, Ennerdale and Wasdale are all seen during this tour of the mountains of the Western Lake District.


At the head of Great Langdale, the foothills of Lingmoor Fell on the left and Pike O'Blisco on the right, from the start of the route at the Old Dungeon Ghyll.

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The first day of this circuit uses the route of the Cumbria Way. Perhaps less well-known than the Coast to Coast or Pennine Way the Cumbria Way winds its way up through the Lake District passing beside Scafell. The West Lakes Circuit picks up the trail at Great Langdale, heading up Stake Pass to a wide area of strange “grass dunes”. Standing at the top of the pass it feels like you are in the middle of sand dunes, except they are all covered in a pale green: the green of tufty moorland grass and heather.

We set out under looming grey skies and in drizzle on our first day. Despite the unpromising start we found that the views glorious, both at the top and then as we did the long walk out along the length of Langstrath (meaning, quite literally, “long valley”). Very few people were walking all the way along Langstrath and its complete lack of dwellings and roads makes it the perfect quiet place to begin a holiday.


Blue skies and clouds above Langstrath, the second half of the first day as the route descends to Rosthwaite.

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Our second day was a great day for me as it provided an opportunity for me to test my knowledge of the Lake District valleys and summits. A knowledge built up over many years of walking and enhanced in the last few years by trekking for hundreds of miles through the valleys and passes for Alpine Exploratory.

Leaving the Cumbria Way at Rosthwaite we picked up the Coast to Coast route to take us past the Honister slate mines and over to the Ennerdale valley. Chris and I then broke away from the main route to check the high level alternative. This allows splendid extensive views down both the Buttermere and Ennerdale valleys, with a momentous moment near the high spot for the day from where you can see both valleys at the same time and even capture them within a single photo.


Both Ennerdale and Crummock Water are in view in one shot, at this point above Honister with High Crag the big mountain in view.

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The high level route involves a scramble at the start of the descent that can be challenging and is best avoided in bad weather, but if you fancy a challenge this can lend a truly mountainous feel to the day. For those who do not have a head for heights though, the alternative still affords great views of both valleys so there is no need to miss out.

The third day is an opportunity for a rest. The main route takes you on a short hop over from the head of the Ennerdale valley to the head of the Wasdale valley. It is an easy climb allowing you to focus on the important business of mountain-spotting. Views of the Scafell massif and Scafell itself, start to widen out in front of you.


Chris descends the ridge of Pillar towards the Black Sail Pass, exploring this detour on our routecards.

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If you fancy something a bit longer and the weather is good you can even complete a mountain summit by heading out along the ridge to the Pillar with some final glorious views to both north and west before you drop onto the south side of the Scafell massif. Chris and I took this route and were treated to true mountain scenery on our way out and back. Sadly we reached the summit of Pillar at the same moment as cloud descended, leaving the cloud behind again within minutes of leaving the trig point at the top. Classic mountain weather!

The final day of the circuit gives the walker a real experience of walking in the Alps, but on a smaller scale. As we ascended into the heart of the Scafell massif the paths underfoot and the steepness of the climb were reminiscent of the Tour du Mont Blanc. The difference was that we reached the high point several hours earlier than we would have done in the Alps – the Alps in miniature.

This final day introduces the walker to several quiet and secluded tarns, small mountain ponds and lakes, that are nestled high up between the peaks of the mountains. Some look inviting enough to take a quick dip on a hot day and all allow a moment of quiet reflection before moving on. A beautiful and peaceful end to an intriguing four day trek.


In Wasdale, looking ahead to the final day's stage.

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The Alpine Exploratory series of Lake District circuits provides an education in multi-day walking using the Lake District as its backdrop. The West Lakes route fits perfectly into this. With short days, reminiscent of the South Lakes Circuit, the West Lakes route introduces the keen walker to a mountain experience. Routes between high peaks provide a stunning introduction to Lakeland walking yet the smaller distances and surprisingly easy climbs make it perfect as a warm-up to larger mountain routes.

Chris and I found that it can allow you the pleasure of mountain walking while still managing to retain more of a holiday feel to your trip, rather than a challenge walk. Perfect for getting away from everything and relaxing. I highly recommend it.

West Lakes Circuit - trek this 4-day circuit