(Anna-Maria writes in September 2013:) This year one of the routes I am reviewing for Alpine Exploratory is the Pennine Way. However, I am breaking the route up into five sections. Having tackled my first section, Haworth to Hawes, back in July before taking a break (during which I did the West Highland Way), last week saw me pick up where I left off, at Hawes.

This was a short three-day trek for me, finishing at Middleton-in-Teesdale. I would have liked to walk on for a fourth day but there are limited transport links beyond Middleton-in-Teesdale making it one of the natural breaking points for those walking the route in sections without any support vehicles.

Day one – Hawes to Keld
I really enjoyed this day as a way to get back into the route. The day is uncomplicated, taking a bold line on well-made tracks over Great Shunner Fell. The simplicity of the walking for the majority of the day provides two contrasting views.

Firstly, as you climb up to the summit of Great Shunner Fell on the longest continual ascent of the entire Pennine Way, views back to Hawes and the surrounding mountains open up. The scenery behind me was big and bold with high rounded moorland fells standing tall over low and flat river valleys.


A cairn on Great Shunner Fell.

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Secondly, descending on the other side of Great Shunner Fell everything changes as you drop into the famous valley of Swaledale. This is the Yorkshire Dales at their most classic with the beautiful and deeply verdant river valley of Swaledale stretching out East towards the ridge at Fremington. The Pennine Way treats you to the one of the finest sections of Swaledale as it curls around the final hill into Keld at the end of the day, looking down at the wide river valley which is boxed in by rugged limestone scars.


The view from the Pennine Way to Upper Swaledale. As well as hosting the Pennine Way, the Coast to Coast trail runs above the head of this valley.

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Day two – Keld to Bowes
Many walkers find this day tough because of its terrain. The walking itself should be easy with a gentle climb up to a high point of the day (that is not especially high in relation to the start and end points) before trundling gently back down again on an equally gentle gradient. However, the middle section of the day crosses some truly boggy and marshy ground that is never dry, even if there has been an extended period of hot and dry weather.

For the uncertain bog-trotter who lacks confidence for crossing marshy peatlands, the worst stretch comes immediately after the Tan Hill Inn, the highest pub in England and perfectly placed for lunch or a quick cup of tea to boost the spirits before tackling the damp bogs. The peat and tough moorland grass prevent any significant path being trampled through the terrain so tall marker posts guide the way across the featureless area.


One of the white-tipped marker posts that guides the walker between Tan Hill and Bowes, on this unusually boggy moorland.

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Frequent unexpected sections of lighter green herald “bog moss” – patches of ground that are more like stepping into thick soup than on solid ground. Wet socks become inevitable. Fortunately I take a strange pleasure in bog-trotting, especially when the weather is warm and dry, embracing the cool sensation as my feet sink into the cold wetness of the more watery spots. It meant I took my time enjoying this uninhabited and wide scenery, devoid of buildings or other signs of human life other than the ever-present busy main road on the far horizon.

If you dislike this sort of terrain, don’t worry. The worst is quickly over and the ground becomes drier underfoot, allowing time to appreciate the fine, wide views of this expanse of flat moorland, dotted with hints of purple from the heather and multiple shades of green and brown.

This is the sort of scenery that I adore and it is at its best under blue skies, glowing in the sun as it was this week. I would recommend it to anyone as a must-see element of classic English scenery.


The ruined Bowes Castle, in the village of Bowes.

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Day three – Bowes to Middleton-in-Teesdale
This final day was tough as a route reviewer. If I had thought the middle section of the previous day was bog-trotting at its best, this day revealed the more adventurous side of passing across moorland. The middle section of the day took me over several ridges of featureless moorland, each littered with narrow becks, marshy bogs and numerous indistinct paths worn into the tough moor grass.

While the Pennine Way takes a clear route on the map over this terrain, the reality on the ground is very different. The exact route of the path changes over time, gradually rerouted by the passage of hundreds of pairs of feet, making directions difficult to keep updated. Instead the key is to use the most obvious features to help guide walkers over this section. I spent much of my day scanning the broad views for suitable features and back-tracking on myself while I looked for the paths that are now clearest on the ground.


The small escarpment above Baldersdale gives walkers a sense of direction; the Pennine Way goes to the left of this higher ground.

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Fortunately the weather held up with an unseasonably hot sun and cloudless skies, making my day thoroughly enjoyable despite the hard work involved!

Still to come
After a two-week rest I will finally be tackling the far north, crossing the vast Northumberland expanse. I will be picking off the very final four days before back-tracking on myself to fill in the gap from Middleton-in-Teesdale up to Once Brewed.

I’m looking forward to it, as long as the weather holds for me, although I have been promised that this far north section nearly always heralds rain. Fingers crossed I may be luckier than many when I return to the Pennine Way.

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