(Anna-Maria writes in October 2013:) This year one of the routes I am reviewing for Alpine Exploratory is the Pennine Way. However, I am breaking the route up into five sections. Last week saw me walking the final four days of the route through the Kielder Forest areas and the Cheviot Hills. Having walked from Haworth to Middleton-in-Teesdale earlier in the year, I spent this week filling in the gap from Middleton-in-Teesdale to Once Brewed.


Water tumbles down the rocks of Cauldron Spout, with the headwall of Cow Green Reservoir behind.

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I had been looking forward to this section of the route. In particular, the first and last day of the week.

I’ve walked the first day, and parts of it, from Middleton-in-Teesdale to Dufton before, though never in this direction. There are three particularly stunning sights, as you pass the High Force waterfalls in the morning, scramble up beside the ferocious yet secluded waterfall of Cauldron Spout in the early afternoon and then walk along the side of High Cup, an awe-inspiring glacial feature carved out of the ground many millennia ago, at the end of the day.

The final day from Greenhead to Once Brewed is a relatively short day but spends the whole day on Hadrian’s Wall. After my taster hour of Hadrian’s Wall the week before I was looking forward to seeing more, even if I already knew that it was going to involve plenty of ups and downs.

Sadly this week was not quite as expected. The autumnal weather was in full force with thick and low cloud, strong winds, and passing heavy showers. Interesting conditions to tackle one of the longest and hardest stretches of the Pennine Way.

Day one – Middleton-in-Teesdale to Dufton
This is an incredibly long day but it is surprisingly flat and the grandiose scenery and intrigue prevent any frustration that might occur with a similar length day on moor tops. It doesn’t matter how tired you are getting, there is always something new to surprise you.


The twin waterfalls of Low Force, on the River Tees below the more famous High Force.

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I knew the route for this day quite well and had anticipated some glorious views. Sadly, the English weather had different plans for me. The skies were slightly overcast but the air and ground remained dry. It should have meant a great day for photos but sadly there was a thick cloudy haze over everything, occluding the views and creating a heavy sense of anticipation in the air. Accompanying this strange weather was a bracingly cold wind. This started the day as a cold breeze but by the time I arrived in Dufton it was a strong wind, easily blowing my feet about as I walked so that I struggled to place my feet over the rocks that litter the tracks during the second half of the day.


High Force on the Tees, a highlight of the riverside walking towards Langdon Beck.

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Instead of views I had the dubious treat of the sounds of gunfire for most of my afternoon. From Cauldron Spout the route spends much of the rest of the day following the northern boundary of a large military firing range. Last week on the southern side of the Cheviot Hills there was evidence of military exercises but this week sounded like full-scale war with frequent explosions and bursts of machine gun fire. It was a salient reminder that despite the beauty and apparent vastness of the moors, we are actually all packed together quite tightly on a surprisingly small island.


The grand River Tees shortly before the Pennine Way takes to the moors to Dufton... a moorland crossing in contrast to the morning's riverside walk.

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Day two – Dufton to Alston
This was a bleak and bitter day. It is another very long day, adding height and remoteness to the big distance of the previous day. The day involves a long climb up onto high moorland summit, walking over four summits before dropping down slowly and gradually on a long 12km track to the valleys for a final walk along fields. It is a tough walk at any time but particularly difficult when following on from the previous day’s route.

I woke to a fierce wind with rain in the air. Accompanying the inclement weather was a thick fog of low cloud reaching its misty tendrils all the way down to the valley bottom. I couldn’t see anything as I battled my way up onto the fells, head down to try and turn myself into an aerodynamic battering ram, fighting for some of the initial climb to stay on my feet. The wind dropped fractionally as I headed from the first summit (Knock Fell) towards my second (Great Dunn Fell). It was still strong, but at least I wasn’t fighting to stay upright, so I could work on trying to navigate instead.


The summit cairn of Cross Fell (893m) appears suddenly out of the mist.

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Navigation across these summits is largely guided by cairns, proving difficult with only a few metres of visibility through the thick cloud. I found myself studying the ground for evidence of previous walkers where the grass might be worn down and joyfully speeding up as cairns started to loom out of the mist towards me. One benefit of this is that I can be sure that anyone caught out in unseasonal foggy weather in future (which does happen even in the middle of summer) and following the Alpine Exploratory directions should be able to find their way across the bleak and featureless landscape without too much difficulty.

Day three – Alston to Greenhead
This is a surprisingly hard day. The distance is fractionally shorter than the previous two days and the climbing is not as high or sustained as the crossing of the fells from the route over to Alston. Despite that it can provide any already-tired walker with a real challenge as field crossings give way towards the end of the day to a particularly wet and soggy moorland crossing.

I was lucky enough to keep dry for most of the day and even get warmed by sun for a brief half hour at midday, despite starting and ending the day in heavy rain and overcast skies. Although this should have meant a more enjoyable day than my previous day over to Alston I must confess that I found the day quite bitty – not my favourite sort of route. I prefer the wide open fells, even if they did try to blow me into submission as I went over Knock Fell ad Cross Fell the day before.


Following the South Tyne Railway, a feature of the valley North of Alston. At this point the PW passes beneath the old railway line at a bridge.

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The dubious highlight of my day was coming face to face with a particularly large bull near the end of the day. Having carefully worked my way across a field of protective cows with their young calves I gratefully clambered up onto the stile, pursued by some of the braver and more curious young bullocks wanting to find out what I was. Once atop the stile I realised that 2 metres away from me on the other side of the stile was a massive and muscular bull.

Usually I wouldn’t be too concerned since I’ve found most bulls to be quite placid at this time of year, but to be safe I usually give them a wide berth. With this bull so close to the stile and stood grazing across the middle of the narrow grassy track I was due to take there was no possibility of going unnoticed. Instead I spent an extended period of time stood halfway down the stile talking to him while he came over to inspect me. Eventually I felt safe enough to walk past and head across the 500m stretch of enclosure – a distance over which I’m sure he could have easily outrun me.


Being chased down by the weather as I cross the final moorland of the day.

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Day four – Greenhead to Once Brewed
Following three long and difficult days, anyone walking the full length of the Pennine Way is likely to look forward with anticipation to this day. It is a short half day of walking when compared to both the days before and after it. For interest it is spent entirely on Hadrian’s Wall, providing plenty of interesting historical features to stop and study as you wend your way east along the route.

I had been looking forward to seeing the expanses of wall stretching ahead of me as I walked and studying the ruined Roman features I was due to pass along the way. Unfortunately the English weather had different plans for me with torrential rain all day. Not only did my camera not make it out of my bag, but I also found myself walking for much of the day with my hood up, with vision blinkered to a narrow window ahead of me.

In military style I route-marched (or perhaps route-squelched or route-slimed would be more appropriate, with the wet grass and mud occasionally slipping and sliding under my feet) along the wall. In my head I was busy forming plans to return in a different season to see this classic stretch.


Useful information! A wooden sign reads "NOT Pennine Way"!

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Finishing off the route
In two weeks' time I will finally be finishing my review of the Pennine Way for this year. Having picked off all the sections of the route that are furthest from my home, I will be walking the first four days of the route. Starting at Edale I will be crossing the Peak District National Park on my journey to Haworth.

By then it will be the end of October and is likely to be cold, wet and even boggier than it has been over the last two weeks. Unsurprisingly I have my doubts about the conditions, but it will be good to have finally finished the route. It will also be fabulous to spend a bit more time in Bronte country – especially with the possibility of some suitably bleak and blustery Bronte-esque weather to colour the backdrop.

In anticipation I have already started getting into the mood with some Bronte novels on my Kindle. I should be mentally well-prepared by the time I reach my final end point of the Pennine Way at Haworth, former home to the Bronte sisters.

Pennine Way - join our self-guided trips on the PW!

Big views to enjoy, knowing you won't need to walk over the top


(Anna-Maria writes:) The South Lakes is a beautiful area to walk in during the unreliable winter months. It is incredibly compact, compared to the more mountainous surrounds of the rest of the Lake District. Whether you head north, west or east from the popular tourist area of Ambleside and its immediate surrounds you can quickly find yourself needing to climb over high ridges again to move from place to place.

This circuit keeps to the lower areas near Ambleside, exploring low passes between valleys and leaving you with an intimate knowledge of how the different parts of this popular tourist area lock together, just like the pieces of a jigsaw.

For both novice walkers and more experienced walkers looking for a more relaxed pace for a few days, this area can provide stunning scenery and a sense of wilderness without ever straying far from relatively large habitations. It is easy to cut routes short if necessary and a good time can be enjoyed by everyone, whatever their age or ability, thanks to the lower heights that need to be achieved to cross between valleys.

With all these benefits I find that the South Lakes circuit is one of my favourite routes to review for Alpine Exploratory during the winter months. Winter review work can frequently be wet, cold and muddy, no matter how well prepared you are. Although a single clear winter day with snow on the ground can often make up for any number of wet days endured up to then.

Winter also brings the looming pressure of fewer daylight hours. In this respect the South Lakes route brings a great benefit. The routes each day are shorter than on many of our other routes. Wet and cold can be easily endured in the knowledge that walking a little faster can bring you to warm and cosy accommodation in a few hours. If necessary there is time to wait for a more reliable weather window in the day to walk and pubs abound for emergency breaks. Snow also rarely upsets plans on the South Lakes circuit. Low-level paths that are easy underfoot remain passable. Instead the snow merely adds some crisp beauty to the view.

This year had the added challenge of re-structuring the route for the new modular Lake District series. While we had walked the route before, we had never done it in this direction. Previously treasured views were lost, unless we stopped to look behind us. Fortunately whole new vistas opened up too.

We started our review halfway through the official circuit, setting out from Coniston in torrential horizontal rain and sleet. Coniston is a pretty village with some superb walking circuits that can be done from the door as day walks. The route we took gives you an opportunity to explore parts of several Coniston day walks by taking a winding, indirect route over to Hawkshead. There is the opportunity to stretch your legs on a pretty early morning climb through the deciduous wooded area of Guards Wood before crossing some of the less-frequented trails in Grizedale Forest later in the day.


The South Lakes Circuit has many pretty woodland stretches

Grizedale Forest was particularly beautiful for us this year as we were the first to make tracks in several inches of crunchy fresh snow. It was a perfect start to our review, despite the rain that kept up steadily during the morning.

Our destination that evening was Hawkshead, a village that is popular with tourists as it has strong links to Beatrix Potter, author of the children’s books. Everywhere you turn you can find mementoes of her stories. Thankfully a plethora of friendly pubs serving good food and a pedestrianised high street means that the village can ably handle the influx of tourists each year. In February, as we descended a boggy field towards the village, heads down against the continuing rain, we found that the village was comparatively quiet. We were certainly glad to be warmly welcomed off the snowy hillside by our accommodation hosts for that evening.


Looking back to the mountains in the East, leaving Hawkshead

By the next morning, most of the snow had melted away and the temperature had risen. We were able to stroll out of Hawkshead towards the glorious and remote-feeling Tarn Hows under a blue sky admiring some of our favourite views of this part of the Lake District. Looking back towards Hawkshead as you leave, the distant mountains in the East seem to be from another world compared to the gentle climb you are taking across fields and through small copses of deciduous trees to the tarn.


Grand views across Tarn Hows

This isn’t the end of pretty wooded areas either. Later in the day you get to drop through another pretty wooded area past the small but captivating waterfalls at Colwith Force. This theme of water and deciduous woodland is one that recurs throughout the South Lakes circuit. When compared to the denser coniferous plantations elsewhere in the Lake District, this old English deciduous woodland that you meet so often during the four days of the South Lakes Circuit walk can start to feel like a unique feature for this route.

Having spent a night at the busy town of Ambleside – the starting point of this route for most of our clients – we set out the next morning towards the Great Langdale valley. This was where the real surprises began for us. We felt that we knew this area well but walking it in reverse reminded us how much can be missed if you don’t look behind you enough when you walk.

The day from Ambleside out to Great Langdale is a perfect start for any walker who is new to the Lake District. The scenery is grand and towers above you, yet the walking is mostly flat. The day’s first surprise came as we climbed up Loughrigg Terrace, looking towards Grasmere. These views are far more superb than when descending the same piece of open moorland towards Rydal Water.

I love the route the South Lakes circuit takes along the shore of Rydal Water. It's easy to overlook this body of water, if leaving Grasmere and driving past Rydal Water enroute to Ambleside, assuming that this is just another part of Grasmere. Fewer people take the time to walk on the shores of Rydal Water compared to some of the other easily accessed waters in the Lake District National Park and this keeps Rydal Water feeling particularly special.

We were also overjoyed to spend several more hours than usual walking with the Langdale Pikes dominating the scenery simply by approaching them from the East rather than the South. The Great Langdale valley is wide and flat allowing an extended period of easy walking as your eyes draw you forward towards the towering peaks at the end of the valley. A real treat for the close of your first day of walking – especially if you are new to walking in the Lake District.


A final glimpse back to the Langdale Pikes

Our final day was another special day for us. It takes the walker into an area that can feel almost deserted compared to the rest of the South Lakes. While cars can be found queuing through the Little Langdale valley, waiting for their opportunity to get over the steep and narrow Wrynose Pass at the end of the valley, walkers crossing the bleak moorland of Blea Moss are not as common. In fact, walkers can become scarcer still as you continue forwards, gently passing from the Little Langdale valley to the Yewdale valley to reach busier roads and Coniston.


The easy crossing between tall mountains into Little Langdale

If you are new to multi-day walking this South Lakes walking route is the perfect testing ground for finding out how it feels to walk on consecutive days carrying your own luggage as you walk. The opportunity to pause for a contemplative break, inspired by grand views but safe in the knowledge that you can enjoy them without the worry of then climbing up and over them, can be a great introduction to the grand scenery of the Lake District. While the terrain is easy underfoot and problems are unlikely to occur you are also rarely far from help if you need it. This can bring valuable peace of mind to less experienced walkers or those wanting to introduce younger children to the grand mountain scenery here.

In so many respects the South Lakes circuit is a training ground for the bigger, longer and tougher walking challenges of the other circuits. Challenges I still have ahead of me this year as I look forward to reviewing the other new Lake District circuits over the next couple of months ready for this season's clients.

The South Lakes was the first area of the Lakes I ever walked in, and I still think it is one of the best introductions you can get to walking in the Lake District National Park. If you are new to this kind of walking trip, this South Lakes circuit will give you the opportunity to explore and fall in love with the Lake District for the first time, just as it did for me all those years ago.

South Lakes Circuit - trek this route in 4 stages and 5 nights

The 2014 Tour de France starts in Yorkshire! The race starts with 2 stages around the Pennines before a third English stage from Cambridge to London. Then to France for the continuation. The Yorkshire stages will be on Saturday 5 July (Leeds to Harrogate) and Sunday 6 July (York to Sheffield) 2014.


On the moor above Swaledale, the TdF route in view

It happens that the race route coincides with three of Alpine Exploratory's treks: the Pennine Way, the Dales Way and the Coast to Coast. While the route itself is likely to be packed with spectators, the hills will offer quiet and the chance of wider views of the action. We've had a preliminary think about how trekkers could combine the TdF with their treks, as follows:

Pennine Way
Stage 1 of the Tour will pass through Hawes and Thwaite; long views will be possible of the Buttertubs ascent, from Great Shunner Fell which carries our Pennine Way stage from Hawes to Keld. Then Tour stage 2 will climb from Haworth to Hebden Bridge, the opposite of the Pennine Way's moorland stage from Hebden Bridge to Haworth. However, the Pennine Way's stage to Hebden Bridge gives perhaps the best chance to see the route, by breaking off from the moors to join the action on the steady Cragg Vale climb.

Pennine Way

Dales Way
Of all the treks, the Dales Way coincides the most with the Tour. Much of Wharfedale is covered by the cyclists, between Grassington and Buckden, after an earlier visit to Ilkley. It's all go! On the second day of racing the Tour crosses the Dales Way near Bolton Abbey.

Dales Way

Coast to Coast
Stage 1 of the Tour follows Swaledale, close to the Coast to Coast's Swaledale alternative route to Reeth. This will be one of the most scenic helicopter shots beamed to the world. Vantage points close to the road, yet set apart from the fray, should be easy to find. The second stage runs too far South to visit the Coast to Coast route.

Coast to Coast

Please email us to plan your trek during the Tour; we can advise on exact dates, timings and places to stay. Thank you.

The Manger from Uffington

Pete has been researching our new trip along the Ridgeway, this Autumn. This will be Alpine Exploratory's first trip in Southern England. The Ridgeway is a trail of about 140km passing through the Chiltern hills to the East of the River Thames, and the North Wessex Downs to the West of the Thames. The terrain is rolling, following the course of an ancient route.



Wayland Smithy behind trees


Wayland Smithy


Liddington Castle


Sparsholt Firs


Walking the Ridgeway

Please contact us any time to chat about this exciting new trip!

In the pipeline - news about our new trips for 2012

We are working on our new trips for 2012, to include our Dolomites treks and our guided Highlands weeks, and more. Full details will appear on the website over the next month. We are excited at the prospect of helping clients enjoy new aspects of the mountains. Roll on 2012!

(Danby Wiske to Robin Hood's Bay)

(Anna-Maria and Chris write:) The last part of the Coast to Coast walk crossing the North York Moors is perhaps one of the most beautiful parts of the route, especially in September when the heather is still in flower. While the Lake District section is filled with some of the more rugged parts of the Lakeland hills and parts of the Lake District that are not always seen by the casual visitor this final section of the route leaves the tired walker with some beautiful final memories.

Our review of the Danby Wiske to Robin Hood’s Bay stretch began ominously with the tail end of the hurricane passing over the UK. We experienced strong winds even while we were still on the flat plain before Osmotherley and Anna was often struggling to keep her feet on the ground once we made it up onto the more exposed moor tops! Evidence of the damage caused by the high winds could be seen in many of the woods and villages across the route. The hurricane marked a clear start to autumn too, with a noticeable drop in temperature over the course of the week and reports from the transfer company that they were having to scrape morning ice off the windscreens by the end of the week.

There was plenty of wildlife around. Sightings included a grass snake, squirrels in the woods and a few butterflies that were somehow managing to brave the winds. There was also plenty of elusive wildlife heard but not seen. A buzzard was marking his ownership of the East Arnecliff Wood and, in the early evening, we could hear both barn and tawny owls.

Despite the lateness in the year there were still plenty of walkers traversing the country on the Coast to Coast route. A few were taking it in long stages to cover the distance in only 10-12 days but most were taking a more manageable and leisurely approach of about 15 days. While the route does offer opportunities to get through it in fewer days the resultant big stages are best spaced out as they can take their toll on the soles of a walker’s feet. Having reviewed the route in longer stages last winter with several of those long stages consecutive for the 2011 walking season we would certainly recommend spacing them out more!

Coast to Coast - join us!

Here is Herbie the dog, enjoying the obstacles on the Coast to Coast trek along with his team members Kate and Peter, this early August.


At the top of Kidsty Pike in the Lake District


Leaving Orton on the way to the Dales

Please join us on the Coast to Coast, and bring the dog!

Update!

Herbie's adventures continue, fording streams in Swaledale:


In Swaledale, the Yorkshire Dales

Coast to Coast - our full trek from St Bees to Robin Hood's Bay

Here are two photos from explorations in the Yorkshire Dales yesterday, in mid-July 2011:


Hay fields and barns in Swaledale


Hardraw Force near Hawes in Wendsleydale

Both of these scenes are short strolls off the Pennine Way trail.

Pennine Way - see our trips

We are delighted to say that Davey the little terrier dog has been found safe and well in Onich, having gone missing from the West Highland Way stage into Fort William. Well done to his owners Helen and Mike and to all local residents who looked for him. A happy ending!

(Pete Ellis writes)
Tuesday 3rd May, 8 intrepid Canadians (4 Parkers and 4 Wallaces) plus Pete arrive at the start point of the West Highland Way in Milngavie. The arrival, 10am, had been delayed by pressing business at a well-known supermarket. Being soon after Easter, it appears that chocolate mini-eggs were on special offer and a substantial supply was bought up for the week.


At Milngavie, ready to hit the trail

So, after the usual photo-call, off we set in glorious sunshine. A gentle first day soon saw us in Drymen.

Wednesday also dawned bright and sunny, and after a short diversion in Garadhban Forest, the whole group made it to the top of Conic Hill for a splendid view over Loch Lomond. Well done to Les and Bill, who have now summited two hills in Europe!


Approaching Conic Hill and Loch Lomond

After a leisurely lunch, the woods beside Loch Lomond proved more taxing than expected, not helped by the leader saying ‘this is the last little bit of up’ only to find another little bit of up around the next corner. Fortunately the said leader found a pair of earmuffs hanging from a tree, which were put to very good use when the barracking started (I must remember to take them on future trips!).


Loch Lomond in evening light

Thursday, and along the shores of Loch Lomond. Three days on the trail, and still no rain – could it last? The ambiance of the Drovers’ Inn was enjoyed in the evening.

Friday: not so sunny but still dry. A small area of mud/muck was encountered which necessitated the leader applying the earmuffs for a while until things had quietened down. The chocolate mini-eggs were still being liberally distributed.

Saturday: a long day ahead, 30km from Tyndrum to Kingshouse. An unpromising start (light showers) soon improved to give a largely dry day. In the afternoon, a long and loud rumble of thunder caused a quickening of the pace, but the dark clouds over the Blackmount hills fortunately didn’t amount to anything: Rannoch Moor is not the best place to be in a thunderstorm! A very welcome drink was enjoyed at the Kingshouse, before transferring to the Clachaig for the night.


At Ba Bridge on Rannoch Moor

Sunday: pretty wet, but only a short day so plenty of time in Kinlochleven to dry out. Luckily, the rain and clouds held off for long enough to get a good view of Ben Nevis from the top of the Devil’s Staircase. With the rain falling, there wasn’t much interest in hearing about Patrick MacGill and the hard life of the navvies that built the Blackwater dam in the early 1900s.


Belted Galloways, that distinctive breed

Monday: showers again, but views in between. And soon we were strolling down Fort William’s High Street to the new finish of the West Highland Way in Gordon Square – and the man will still be sat on the bench rubbing his foot!

So, another good week amongst the mountains of Scotland, with the usual mix of Scottish weather. And thanks to a great group of clients: we had a load of fun, lots of banter, a few cuckoo impressions, and we consumed 27 packets of chocolate mini-eggs. Is that a record?

West Highland Way - our WHW trek, available guided in 2012

A dog has been lost on the West Highland Way near Kinlochleven, on Sunday 15 May 2011. His name is Davey and he is a terrier cross, brown, and 2 years old.

Davey was seen in good condition in the area of the fish farm on the road between Kinlochleven and North Ballachulish, towards the North Ballachulish end, on Sunday 22 May, not on the WHW route itself.

Davey's owners have led an exemplary search and are extremely keen to find him. If you see Davey please call Helen on 07747 807 734. Thank you.


Davey afoot in the Highlands

Contact us

(Pete Ellis writes)
I have just returned from a trip to check and update all the Pennine Way route cards.

Crumbling dry stone walls in Calderdale, above Hebden Bridge

I had my doubts about starting the Pennine Way on the 1st April, but my misgivings over the date proved unfounded. 16 days walking in largely dry conditions, surrounded by the sights and sounds of spring, have been a pure joy. Spring is such a wonderful time to be out in the hills: the lapwings have been doing their tumbling display flight, the snipe have been drumming, the Golden Plovers have been making their plaintive calls, and I heard my first cuckoo of the year.

An Emperor Hawkmoth

All the fresh green growth has given the countryside a wonderful new look after the drabness of the winter. Other sights have included lots of young lambs, spring flowers, frog spawn, and a few less-often seen animals such as an Emperor Hawkmoth and a large Grass snake.

In Baldersdale

And I was not alone on the trail, even at this time of year. Three others started on the same day as me and I met a number of people doing the route in smaller chunks. To the regulars that I kept meeting: thanks for your conversation, friendship and camaraderie. You really help to ‘make’ a trip like this.

High Cup, the magnificent sight before reaching Dufton

I’m pleased to report that Alpine Exploratory’s routecards were mostly accurate for 2011, but a few areas needed updating. If you previously struggled with the Alston to Middleton section, then you were not alone! But all should be plain and simple now.

Low Force on the River Tees... High Force comes later on

So what’s my next appointment with Alpine Exploratory? Leading the West Highland Way in 2 weeks’ time. I can’t wait!

Nearing The Cheviot, the major hill on the last stage

Pennine Way
West Highland Way