(Anna-Maria writes in October 2013:) This year one of the routes I am reviewing for Alpine Exploratory is the Pennine Way. However, I am breaking the route up into five sections. Last week saw me walking the final four days of the route through the Kielder Forest areas and the Cheviot Hills. Having walked from Haworth to Middleton-in-Teesdale earlier in the year, I spent this week filling in the gap from Middleton-in-Teesdale to Once Brewed.


Water tumbles down the rocks of Cauldron Spout, with the headwall of Cow Green Reservoir behind.

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I had been looking forward to this section of the route. In particular, the first and last day of the week.

I’ve walked the first day, and parts of it, from Middleton-in-Teesdale to Dufton before, though never in this direction. There are three particularly stunning sights, as you pass the High Force waterfalls in the morning, scramble up beside the ferocious yet secluded waterfall of Cauldron Spout in the early afternoon and then walk along the side of High Cup, an awe-inspiring glacial feature carved out of the ground many millennia ago, at the end of the day.

The final day from Greenhead to Once Brewed is a relatively short day but spends the whole day on Hadrian’s Wall. After my taster hour of Hadrian’s Wall the week before I was looking forward to seeing more, even if I already knew that it was going to involve plenty of ups and downs.

Sadly this week was not quite as expected. The autumnal weather was in full force with thick and low cloud, strong winds, and passing heavy showers. Interesting conditions to tackle one of the longest and hardest stretches of the Pennine Way.

Day one – Middleton-in-Teesdale to Dufton
This is an incredibly long day but it is surprisingly flat and the grandiose scenery and intrigue prevent any frustration that might occur with a similar length day on moor tops. It doesn’t matter how tired you are getting, there is always something new to surprise you.


The twin waterfalls of Low Force, on the River Tees below the more famous High Force.

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I knew the route for this day quite well and had anticipated some glorious views. Sadly, the English weather had different plans for me. The skies were slightly overcast but the air and ground remained dry. It should have meant a great day for photos but sadly there was a thick cloudy haze over everything, occluding the views and creating a heavy sense of anticipation in the air. Accompanying this strange weather was a bracingly cold wind. This started the day as a cold breeze but by the time I arrived in Dufton it was a strong wind, easily blowing my feet about as I walked so that I struggled to place my feet over the rocks that litter the tracks during the second half of the day.


High Force on the Tees, a highlight of the riverside walking towards Langdon Beck.

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Instead of views I had the dubious treat of the sounds of gunfire for most of my afternoon. From Cauldron Spout the route spends much of the rest of the day following the northern boundary of a large military firing range. Last week on the southern side of the Cheviot Hills there was evidence of military exercises but this week sounded like full-scale war with frequent explosions and bursts of machine gun fire. It was a salient reminder that despite the beauty and apparent vastness of the moors, we are actually all packed together quite tightly on a surprisingly small island.


The grand River Tees shortly before the Pennine Way takes to the moors to Dufton... a moorland crossing in contrast to the morning's riverside walk.

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Day two – Dufton to Alston
This was a bleak and bitter day. It is another very long day, adding height and remoteness to the big distance of the previous day. The day involves a long climb up onto high moorland summit, walking over four summits before dropping down slowly and gradually on a long 12km track to the valleys for a final walk along fields. It is a tough walk at any time but particularly difficult when following on from the previous day’s route.

I woke to a fierce wind with rain in the air. Accompanying the inclement weather was a thick fog of low cloud reaching its misty tendrils all the way down to the valley bottom. I couldn’t see anything as I battled my way up onto the fells, head down to try and turn myself into an aerodynamic battering ram, fighting for some of the initial climb to stay on my feet. The wind dropped fractionally as I headed from the first summit (Knock Fell) towards my second (Great Dunn Fell). It was still strong, but at least I wasn’t fighting to stay upright, so I could work on trying to navigate instead.


The summit cairn of Cross Fell (893m) appears suddenly out of the mist.

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Navigation across these summits is largely guided by cairns, proving difficult with only a few metres of visibility through the thick cloud. I found myself studying the ground for evidence of previous walkers where the grass might be worn down and joyfully speeding up as cairns started to loom out of the mist towards me. One benefit of this is that I can be sure that anyone caught out in unseasonal foggy weather in future (which does happen even in the middle of summer) and following the Alpine Exploratory directions should be able to find their way across the bleak and featureless landscape without too much difficulty.

Day three – Alston to Greenhead
This is a surprisingly hard day. The distance is fractionally shorter than the previous two days and the climbing is not as high or sustained as the crossing of the fells from the route over to Alston. Despite that it can provide any already-tired walker with a real challenge as field crossings give way towards the end of the day to a particularly wet and soggy moorland crossing.

I was lucky enough to keep dry for most of the day and even get warmed by sun for a brief half hour at midday, despite starting and ending the day in heavy rain and overcast skies. Although this should have meant a more enjoyable day than my previous day over to Alston I must confess that I found the day quite bitty – not my favourite sort of route. I prefer the wide open fells, even if they did try to blow me into submission as I went over Knock Fell ad Cross Fell the day before.


Following the South Tyne Railway, a feature of the valley North of Alston. At this point the PW passes beneath the old railway line at a bridge.

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The dubious highlight of my day was coming face to face with a particularly large bull near the end of the day. Having carefully worked my way across a field of protective cows with their young calves I gratefully clambered up onto the stile, pursued by some of the braver and more curious young bullocks wanting to find out what I was. Once atop the stile I realised that 2 metres away from me on the other side of the stile was a massive and muscular bull.

Usually I wouldn’t be too concerned since I’ve found most bulls to be quite placid at this time of year, but to be safe I usually give them a wide berth. With this bull so close to the stile and stood grazing across the middle of the narrow grassy track I was due to take there was no possibility of going unnoticed. Instead I spent an extended period of time stood halfway down the stile talking to him while he came over to inspect me. Eventually I felt safe enough to walk past and head across the 500m stretch of enclosure – a distance over which I’m sure he could have easily outrun me.


Being chased down by the weather as I cross the final moorland of the day.

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Day four – Greenhead to Once Brewed
Following three long and difficult days, anyone walking the full length of the Pennine Way is likely to look forward with anticipation to this day. It is a short half day of walking when compared to both the days before and after it. For interest it is spent entirely on Hadrian’s Wall, providing plenty of interesting historical features to stop and study as you wend your way east along the route.

I had been looking forward to seeing the expanses of wall stretching ahead of me as I walked and studying the ruined Roman features I was due to pass along the way. Unfortunately the English weather had different plans for me with torrential rain all day. Not only did my camera not make it out of my bag, but I also found myself walking for much of the day with my hood up, with vision blinkered to a narrow window ahead of me.

In military style I route-marched (or perhaps route-squelched or route-slimed would be more appropriate, with the wet grass and mud occasionally slipping and sliding under my feet) along the wall. In my head I was busy forming plans to return in a different season to see this classic stretch.


Useful information! A wooden sign reads "NOT Pennine Way"!

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Finishing off the route
In two weeks' time I will finally be finishing my review of the Pennine Way for this year. Having picked off all the sections of the route that are furthest from my home, I will be walking the first four days of the route. Starting at Edale I will be crossing the Peak District National Park on my journey to Haworth.

By then it will be the end of October and is likely to be cold, wet and even boggier than it has been over the last two weeks. Unsurprisingly I have my doubts about the conditions, but it will be good to have finally finished the route. It will also be fabulous to spend a bit more time in Bronte country – especially with the possibility of some suitably bleak and blustery Bronte-esque weather to colour the backdrop.

In anticipation I have already started getting into the mood with some Bronte novels on my Kindle. I should be mentally well-prepared by the time I reach my final end point of the Pennine Way at Haworth, former home to the Bronte sisters.

Pennine Way - join our self-guided trips on the PW!

(Anna-Maria writes in September 2013:) This year one of the routes I am reviewing for Alpine Exploratory is the Pennine Way. However, I am breaking the route up into five sections. Having tackled my first section, Haworth to Hawes, back in July before taking a break (during which I did the West Highland Way), last week saw me pick up where I left off, at Hawes.

This was a short three-day trek for me, finishing at Middleton-in-Teesdale. I would have liked to walk on for a fourth day but there are limited transport links beyond Middleton-in-Teesdale making it one of the natural breaking points for those walking the route in sections without any support vehicles.

Day one – Hawes to Keld
I really enjoyed this day as a way to get back into the route. The day is uncomplicated, taking a bold line on well-made tracks over Great Shunner Fell. The simplicity of the walking for the majority of the day provides two contrasting views.

Firstly, as you climb up to the summit of Great Shunner Fell on the longest continual ascent of the entire Pennine Way, views back to Hawes and the surrounding mountains open up. The scenery behind me was big and bold with high rounded moorland fells standing tall over low and flat river valleys.


A cairn on Great Shunner Fell.

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Secondly, descending on the other side of Great Shunner Fell everything changes as you drop into the famous valley of Swaledale. This is the Yorkshire Dales at their most classic with the beautiful and deeply verdant river valley of Swaledale stretching out East towards the ridge at Fremington. The Pennine Way treats you to the one of the finest sections of Swaledale as it curls around the final hill into Keld at the end of the day, looking down at the wide river valley which is boxed in by rugged limestone scars.


The view from the Pennine Way to Upper Swaledale. As well as hosting the Pennine Way, the Coast to Coast trail runs above the head of this valley.

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Day two – Keld to Bowes
Many walkers find this day tough because of its terrain. The walking itself should be easy with a gentle climb up to a high point of the day (that is not especially high in relation to the start and end points) before trundling gently back down again on an equally gentle gradient. However, the middle section of the day crosses some truly boggy and marshy ground that is never dry, even if there has been an extended period of hot and dry weather.

For the uncertain bog-trotter who lacks confidence for crossing marshy peatlands, the worst stretch comes immediately after the Tan Hill Inn, the highest pub in England and perfectly placed for lunch or a quick cup of tea to boost the spirits before tackling the damp bogs. The peat and tough moorland grass prevent any significant path being trampled through the terrain so tall marker posts guide the way across the featureless area.


One of the white-tipped marker posts that guides the walker between Tan Hill and Bowes, on this unusually boggy moorland.

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Frequent unexpected sections of lighter green herald “bog moss” – patches of ground that are more like stepping into thick soup than on solid ground. Wet socks become inevitable. Fortunately I take a strange pleasure in bog-trotting, especially when the weather is warm and dry, embracing the cool sensation as my feet sink into the cold wetness of the more watery spots. It meant I took my time enjoying this uninhabited and wide scenery, devoid of buildings or other signs of human life other than the ever-present busy main road on the far horizon.

If you dislike this sort of terrain, don’t worry. The worst is quickly over and the ground becomes drier underfoot, allowing time to appreciate the fine, wide views of this expanse of flat moorland, dotted with hints of purple from the heather and multiple shades of green and brown.

This is the sort of scenery that I adore and it is at its best under blue skies, glowing in the sun as it was this week. I would recommend it to anyone as a must-see element of classic English scenery.


The ruined Bowes Castle, in the village of Bowes.

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Day three – Bowes to Middleton-in-Teesdale
This final day was tough as a route reviewer. If I had thought the middle section of the previous day was bog-trotting at its best, this day revealed the more adventurous side of passing across moorland. The middle section of the day took me over several ridges of featureless moorland, each littered with narrow becks, marshy bogs and numerous indistinct paths worn into the tough moor grass.

While the Pennine Way takes a clear route on the map over this terrain, the reality on the ground is very different. The exact route of the path changes over time, gradually rerouted by the passage of hundreds of pairs of feet, making directions difficult to keep updated. Instead the key is to use the most obvious features to help guide walkers over this section. I spent much of my day scanning the broad views for suitable features and back-tracking on myself while I looked for the paths that are now clearest on the ground.


The small escarpment above Baldersdale gives walkers a sense of direction; the Pennine Way goes to the left of this higher ground.

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Fortunately the weather held up with an unseasonably hot sun and cloudless skies, making my day thoroughly enjoyable despite the hard work involved!

Still to come
After a two-week rest I will finally be tackling the far north, crossing the vast Northumberland expanse. I will be picking off the very final four days before back-tracking on myself to fill in the gap from Middleton-in-Teesdale up to Once Brewed.

I’m looking forward to it, as long as the weather holds for me, although I have been promised that this far north section nearly always heralds rain. Fingers crossed I may be luckier than many when I return to the Pennine Way.

Pennine Way - join us!

The 2014 Tour de France starts in Yorkshire! The race starts with 2 stages around the Pennines before a third English stage from Cambridge to London. Then to France for the continuation. The Yorkshire stages will be on Saturday 5 July (Leeds to Harrogate) and Sunday 6 July (York to Sheffield) 2014.


On the moor above Swaledale, the TdF route in view

It happens that the race route coincides with three of Alpine Exploratory's treks: the Pennine Way, the Dales Way and the Coast to Coast. While the route itself is likely to be packed with spectators, the hills will offer quiet and the chance of wider views of the action. We've had a preliminary think about how trekkers could combine the TdF with their treks, as follows:

Pennine Way
Stage 1 of the Tour will pass through Hawes and Thwaite; long views will be possible of the Buttertubs ascent, from Great Shunner Fell which carries our Pennine Way stage from Hawes to Keld. Then Tour stage 2 will climb from Haworth to Hebden Bridge, the opposite of the Pennine Way's moorland stage from Hebden Bridge to Haworth. However, the Pennine Way's stage to Hebden Bridge gives perhaps the best chance to see the route, by breaking off from the moors to join the action on the steady Cragg Vale climb.

Pennine Way

Dales Way
Of all the treks, the Dales Way coincides the most with the Tour. Much of Wharfedale is covered by the cyclists, between Grassington and Buckden, after an earlier visit to Ilkley. It's all go! On the second day of racing the Tour crosses the Dales Way near Bolton Abbey.

Dales Way

Coast to Coast
Stage 1 of the Tour follows Swaledale, close to the Coast to Coast's Swaledale alternative route to Reeth. This will be one of the most scenic helicopter shots beamed to the world. Vantage points close to the road, yet set apart from the fray, should be easy to find. The second stage runs too far South to visit the Coast to Coast route.

Coast to Coast

Please email us to plan your trek during the Tour; we can advise on exact dates, timings and places to stay. Thank you.

(Pete Ellis writes)
I have just returned from a trip to check and update all the Pennine Way route cards.

Crumbling dry stone walls in Calderdale, above Hebden Bridge

I had my doubts about starting the Pennine Way on the 1st April, but my misgivings over the date proved unfounded. 16 days walking in largely dry conditions, surrounded by the sights and sounds of spring, have been a pure joy. Spring is such a wonderful time to be out in the hills: the lapwings have been doing their tumbling display flight, the snipe have been drumming, the Golden Plovers have been making their plaintive calls, and I heard my first cuckoo of the year.

An Emperor Hawkmoth

All the fresh green growth has given the countryside a wonderful new look after the drabness of the winter. Other sights have included lots of young lambs, spring flowers, frog spawn, and a few less-often seen animals such as an Emperor Hawkmoth and a large Grass snake.

In Baldersdale

And I was not alone on the trail, even at this time of year. Three others started on the same day as me and I met a number of people doing the route in smaller chunks. To the regulars that I kept meeting: thanks for your conversation, friendship and camaraderie. You really help to ‘make’ a trip like this.

High Cup, the magnificent sight before reaching Dufton

I’m pleased to report that Alpine Exploratory’s routecards were mostly accurate for 2011, but a few areas needed updating. If you previously struggled with the Alston to Middleton section, then you were not alone! But all should be plain and simple now.

Low Force on the River Tees... High Force comes later on

So what’s my next appointment with Alpine Exploratory? Leading the West Highland Way in 2 weeks’ time. I can’t wait!

Nearing The Cheviot, the major hill on the last stage

Pennine Way
West Highland Way

Simon writes: Our rolling visits to our hotels, B&Bs and inns continued this week in the Lakes and the Pennines. Saying hello to our accommodations is one of the most satisfying and enjoyable parts of what we do. This applies whether we're catching up with our regular hosts or meeting people for the first time. It is also enormously instructive as we adjust our normal itineraries for the next year.


A Land Rover in Stonethwaite, Borrowdale

Borrowdale in the Lake District is a valley with several hamlets, perhaps the largest being Rosthwaite. Rosthwaite and nearby Seatoller, Stonethwaite and Longthwaite all have options for our Coast to Coast, North Lakes Circuit and Lake District Traverse trips.


Down the road in Rosthwaite, Borrowdale, a typical scene

It's especially pleasing when we unearth a hidden gem... those hotels or B&Bs where things are just right. The welcome is warm and we know our clients will be looked after. On the other hand, while it's not pleasing it's just as instructive to hit upon those places where things are not right. Of the good people who set themselves up to welcome guests into their home or hotel, a big majority are delightful and welcoming. You wouldn't do it if you weren't. Only a small number are stand-offish or snooty.

Our way of working is to mix turning up on the spot with calling ahead, and to mix staying as guests with shorter visits to look around. Sometimes incognito and sometimes 'cognito', we try to keep in mind what our clients themselves will experience.

After saying hello to selected B&Bs in Lakeland (in Coniston, Ambleside, Buttermere, Borrowdale, Keswick and Threlkeld) I set off for Hadrian's Wall and ultimately Bellingham... Pennine Way country.


The quiet morning scene in Bellingham on the Pennine Way

Here are some places that we're excited about booking for our clients:

+ On the Pennine Way, a small B&B run by a smashing retired couple. There is genuine warmth here and huge attention to detail. A true find.
+ Also on the Pennine Way, a caring couple running with great hospitality a finely-tuned B&B in a small village.
+ In a Lakeland village a central, characterful hotel with open and friendly staff and owners.
+ A hotel in the Lakes taken over by new owners not too long ago and obviously going on to great things. A wonderful welcome.

Driving back to Settle I followed the river South Tyne via Slaggyford and Alston.


Doves nest in Slaggyford, lower down the Pennine Way

For more info on any of our places or if you have preferences for particular types of accommodation on your trek, please just contact us.

Next destination the Highlands!

Pennine Way
Coast to Coast
Lake District Traverse
North Lakes Circuit

(Simon writes) Heading south yesterday from Settle to pop in on our Pennine Way hoteliers, I hit Haworth and then Hebden Bridge.


The Bronte Parsonage Museum in Haworth


Haworth's main street

The Pennine Way runs a couple of km to the West of Hebden Bridge. We have options here... some PWers will enjoy being in the town, while others will favour the option right on the trail. We have excellent options of both types.

It happens that some of our most memorable and welcoming accommodation is tucked away in rural spots away from the towns. Charming owners with individual and independent style make these establishments what they are.


Hebden Bridge and its independent shops

Of course the Pennine Way is a route far from urban. Here is Pinhaw Beacon above Lothersdale, a wide viewpoint yesterday in the August sunshine.


Pinhaw Beacon above Lothersdale

Pennine Way South

Over recent days we've been on manoeuvres in the Pennines. An ascent of Pen-y-ghent direct from Settle was great fun in the sunshine... and visiting some of our guesthouses in the South Pennines was also enjoyable despite today's lashing rain!


Pen-y-ghent from the South, 22 August 2010

Pennine Way

The Pennine Way between Tan Hill and Baldersdale, on the borders of the Yorkshire Dales and North Pennines, splits in two with one branch visiting the village of Bowes.

Following recent recces we will begin to offer the direct route to Baldersdale as our norm, missing Bowes. It's a marginal decision and we'll continue to offer both options. As with all our trips, we experiment based on our research and our clients' thoughts. The moorland stretches direct to Baldersdale are lonely but charming.

Pennine Way
Pennine Way Central

Our research on the Pennine Way is complete. For spring and summer 2009 we are now offering the whole route from Edale to Kirk Yetholm.

The PW is magnificent. It is frustrating, challenging, at times bleak and wet, but it's magnificent.

Over the next few days we'll update our pages to include full details of our PW trip and of course the Pennine Way North for our clients who are completing it stage-wise. We'll also update our Walking Guide page on the PW:

The Pennine Way: A guide to the walk

Please contact us to chat about this superb route.


Looking to Hen Hole in the Cheviot hills


Kirk Yetholm on a warm evening, Easter 2009

Pennine Way
Pennine Way North

As part of our research for our Pennine Way North trip, planned for 2009, we visited Hadrian's Wall in November 2008. For the day's walk between Greenhead and a point just before Housesteads, the Pennine Way runs along the wall and thus follows the Hadrian's Wall Way.

The photo shows the open country into which the Pennine Way ventures as it leaves the Wall for its final journey North to the Cheviot Hills.

Pennine Way North